The French Connection: Cartier’s Mughal-Inspired Treasures

For centuries, people have shared their nation’s unique ideas, technology, cuisine and art with others from across the globe. Whether it be a yoga class based in Hindu spiritual practices or a chic sushi restaurant headed by a Japanese chef, the world is enriched by the fusion of cultures. The fashion industry also benefits from the melange of ideas sourced from various continents, and this synergistic design practice is most notably embodied in Cartier’s Mughal-inspired jewels.

Maharaja of Patiala

In 1911, Jacques Cartier ventured from London to India to witness the coronation of George V and Queen Mary at Delhi Durbar. During this journey Cartier became transfixed by the exquisite colored stones presented by Indian gem dealers, with the country’s nobility equally delighted by Cartier’s delicate European styles. Cartier gleaned future design inspiration from the region’s elaborate treasures with intricate shapes. In turn, the Maharaja of Patiala entrusted Cartier with the re-set of his Crown Jewels, one of the largest single commissions in the firm’s history.

Within the next decade, French jewelry houses pivoted from the traditional floral and ribbon motifs typically found amongst British elite toward the vibrant hues and geometric shapes of the Art Deco era. Cartier’s collection quickly evolved, with Mughal-inspired cabochons and carved gems incorporated into diamond, pearl and platinum pieces. The marriage of these two styles took the world by storm, with countless “Cartier redesigns” of jewels commissioned by Indian Maharajas, and pieces exhibited in the 1925 Paris Exposition des Art Décoratifs et Industriels Moderne.

The European and American fascination with Eastern culture continued to expand through the 20s and 30s. Iconic “flapper” era shoulder tassel brooches and head scarves were inspired by Indian turrah and sarpech designs, and cigarette cases were often bedazzled with jewels imported from Jaipur. Vock & Vintage has brought Mughal-inspired jewels into the 21st century, offering an elegant nature-inspired platinum, emerald and ruby leaf brooch by Cartier. Twinkling diamond and contemporary emerald earrings (free from oil and bonding agents) by Donna Vock are embellished with intricate design reminiscent of traditional Mughal mandalas. A circa 1705 emerald tablet necklace is carved with ancient Persian text reading ‘bandeh-ye shah-e vilayet’, which translates to “the slave of the king of Trusteeship.”

Carved Columbian Emerald Earrings No Oil by Donna Vock

Antique Colombian Carved Mughal Emerald Tablet & Ruby Necklace c1705

Many of Cartier’s Mughal-inspired jewels are preserved in the Al Thani Collection, an extensive selection of cultural artifacts spanning from ancient civilizations to modern day. A circa 1920 Cartier lotus brooch with carved emeralds and sapphire has been displayed at The Met Fifth Avenue’s Jewelry: The Body Transformed exhibition. In 2019, Christie’s auction house included a number of Cartier pieces in their Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence collection, including a 1922 emerald, sapphire and diamond belt buckle worn by Sybil Sassoon, Marchioness of Cholmondeley.

Emerald, sapphire & diamond belt buckle

An array of other special commissions have been auctioned, like the iconic circa 1931 Patiala ruby choker, commissioned by the Maharaja of Patiala, featuring dazzling ruby, natural pearl and diamond layered beads.

1931 Patiala Ruby Choker