Groovy Jewels: Van Cleef & Arpels’ Mid-Century Excellence

A decade ruled by “free love” and “flower power”, 1960s fashion is synonymous with liberation. A new understanding of womanhood, informed by feminist revolution and counterculture movements, ushered in a new desire for self expression. Conservative jewelry trends were replaced with “far out” color palettes, daring shapes and styles influenced by foreign cultures like India and Morocco. Luxury French fashion house Van Cleef & Arpels is regarded as a prominent tastemaker of the time, constantly evolving alongside defining moments of the 20th century.

The timeless opulence of Van Cleef & Arpels was prevalent throughout the 60s, with Claude Arpels’ creations serving as inspiration for the 1967 production of Jewels, a ballet featuring ornate costumes lined with emeralds, rubies and diamonds. The brand designed custom pieces for fashion icons like Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Barbara Hutton, and famed soprano vocalist Maria Callas. Actor Richard Burton obtained the “Lamartine” bracelet and earrings adorned with coral and amethysts, which perfectly matched the striking violet eyes of his wife, Elizabeth Taylor. Van Cleef & Arpels crafted the coronation crown of Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran, made from white gold and green velvet, covered with diamonds, pearls, emeralds and rubies. The headpiece is an important relic of this cultural milestone for Iran, as Empress Farah became the first woman to be crowned alongside her husband in the country’s history.

Coral Amethyst and Diamond set, color palette made famous by Elizabeth Taylor

Vock & Vintage’s selection of Van Cleef & Arpels’ mid-century treasures perfectly encapsulate the spirit of the era. An eye-catching turquoise and diamond two leaf brooch features geometric stones fixed upon a fluid, curved setting, weaving vintage charm into any modern ensemble. An iconic 18K Phillipine Ring—a circa 1968 discontinued design—is composed of smooth, translucent, beautifully domed chrysoprase with a diamond and gold center detail. The highly coveted gold “Three Wise Monkeys brooch is a playful take on the ‘hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil’ proverb, adorned with blue, red and green cabochon gemstones.

Three Wise Monkeys Brooch

The Wise Monkey brooch is just one treasure amongst Van Cleef & Arpels’ menagerie of animal inspired jewels. The brand’s Paris outpost, La Boutique, found great success with their whimsical pins of gold, gemstones and diamonds, depicting birds, rabbits, tigers, squirrels, dogs and more. In 1968, Van Cleef & Arpels had a major stroke of luck with the renowned Alhambra collection. Inspired by a four leaf clover, the collection debuted with the Alhambra long necklace, composed of 20 clover-shaped motifs in yellow gold trimmed with gold beads. “To be lucky, you must believe in luck,” said Jacques Arpels, nephew of the brand’s founders.