The Je Ne Sais Quoi Factor
“My style is my signature.” claimed Suzanne Belperron, the ‘patron saint’ of women jewelry designers. While the French visionary never physically signed her work, Belperron’s distinct aesthetic makes her creations instantly recognizable, with designs sported by British royalty, famed French author Colette, and the iconic Karl Lagerfeld. In her career spanning over the majority of the 20th century, Belperron’s jewelry can serve as time capsules of style, containing the essence of each decade’s unique aesthetic while never succumbing to cliché.
At the start of France’s “Golden Twenties”, a 19 year old Belperron was taken under the wing of Jeanne Poiret Boivin, head of House of Boivin. Belperron’s innate talent blossomed during her time at the famed jewelry house, developing a catalog of pieces adorned with semi-precious materials like chalcedony, rock crystal, and smoky quartz. Belperron’s early creations are highly coveted, including a set of natural pearl and diamond studded earrings currently offered by Vock & Vintage.
Pair of Platinum, Diamond & Natural Pearl Earrings. Signed Boivin, circa 1935 with certificate. French marks.
In 1932, Belperron began collaborating with Bernard Herz, a Parisian dealer of pearls and stones who gave her the true creative freedom she craved. The duo quickly rose to international fame, garnering the attention of luxury buyers and fashion magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s & Bazaar.
Tragedy struck the Herz-Belperron jewelry house in 1940 when Herz, who was of Jewish origin, was arrested by the Gestapo during the Occupation of Paris. Belperron was later arrested for concealing a Jewish-owned business, swallowing all pages of Herz’s address book one by one at the time of her capture. The loss of Herz spurred her role in the subsequent resistance movement, and in a final letter, dated February 1943 sent from the Drancy internment camp, Bernard Herz entrusted his affairs to Belperron, asking her to protect the interests of his children Aline and Jean.
Belperron soldiered on despite this profound trauma, continuing to work until her death in 1983. Her progressive values and success in a male-dominated industry inspires women designers to this day. Belperron had a unique ability to glean inspiration from an array of sources, such as Egyptian art, plantlife and ocean creatures. Trained at the peak of the Art Deco movement, Belperron offered an alternative to rigid geometric shapes, instead producing pieces with fluid silhouettes and daring color combinations. She pioneered the technique of setting precious stones in semi precious materials, often opting for softer karat metals to develop desired color.
Platinum, Grey Gold, Diamond & Cultured Pearl 'Leaves' Brooch